Thursday, April 5, 2007

Ice-fishing Arctic Char

Why Do Inuit Women Go Nuts About Ice-fishing In The Spring?

One Arctic Char is known as "IQLUPPIK", in my language. Two of them are "IQLUPPEEKK", three or more of them are "IQLUPPEETT".

Arctic Char is the favourate fish for Inuit men, women and children to fish through the ice during the spring. There are other species which are more abundant: the lake trout, the land-locked char, the white fish and the ivitaarruk, which is a species of Arctic char and whose meat is tan in colour.

Each person has a method of fishing. My wife and I like to place our bodies flat on the ice and look at the hook we are using. Depending on the depth of the water we are at or the visibility of the water, we can determine how best to catch the fish. It is most exciting to see a fish that's swimming back and forth towards the hook. It may last a few seconds, it may last several minutes.
We find that a near miss of a lake trout does not discourage it to come back. We can knick it around it's mouth or body, but it'll come back.
Such is not the case with the Iqaluppik. The Arctic Char is harder to get and a miss the first time will ensure the fish not to return at all. Even the slightest touch of the sharp hook will send messages to it that the hook is not to be trusted at all.
But catching one big one is very rewarding. We let out a big "YAY!!!", each time we get one and then kill it with the wooden handle right away, for if we don't there's a very high possibility the fish will return right back to where it came from all its writhing and quick moves. It is a very alive fish, very determine to get away. Indeed, many unwary Inuit will lose one if they're not vigilant.
Getting there is half the fun. That takes, in my case, pretty well a day and a half of planning and executing. The reason is that our camp is in a remote river South of us. On a good day, we may snowmobile there with all our gear in three hours. However, the shopping before that and the loading can be exhausting in itself because we don't want to forget anything for the two or three nights that we'll sleep there.
Kerosene (at least 8 litres) to heat the cabin, camping fuel for the open flame stove to heat water and the like, gasoline and oils for the snowmobiles and the motorized augers, tools, ropes, tarps, sleeping bags and a canvas tent in case we get stranded: these are all considered essential supplies. Then there is the ammunition for the shot-gun or the .22 calibre rifle for the rock ptarmigan that the women are sure to ask for. And don't forget the battery-powered radio-telephone to communicate with persons for emergencies. A satellite phone is a new tool to experience also, if you can afford it.
The snowmobile trail is marked by tracks already there by previous travellers. There are markers in the form of empty oil barrels with fluorescent tapes. These are good for night travelling. Usually, by the time we return home, we've used up most of the daylight and have to resort to such snowmobiling by light from the machine. Although it is more dangerous, it is important to know the trail by heart lest one gets into rocks and other objects that the machine doesn't need to run into.
Although we will use the machines in March, April, May and June, it is extremely important that we dress properly. It can get very cold if one hasn't eaten before the trip. The coat should not have zippers - preferably, it should be a parka. On the inside are layers of sweaters, woolen shirts and t-shirts and a light coat. The same is true for the pants and legs. One wears long-johns and jeans and a heavy layer of wind-proof pants, the kind that does not freeze in below weather. The rule is to keep them light and loose as well. Tight clothing, whether you intend to look "cool" or something, is considered to be foolish and life-threatening. Then come the footwear: wear socks you normally wear and wear extra large socks and duffle socks if possible. Again, you must remember to wear water-proof, wind-proof boots that are extra large for your feet. Tight foot-wear is asking for blue frozen toes and feet.
For the hands, I wear mittens with long sleeves. The mittens are seal-skin, which is water-proof and wind proof. These are easy to wear, light and flexible enough for long-distance driving.
For my head, I use a fur hat that completely covers my head. Then I'll use a mask to keep away frost-biting wind. Then over that, I wear goggles to keep away the wind from the eyes and the blinding glare of the sun.
And so, as you can imagine, I will look light an astronaut. I pretty well increase in size by almost double - but that is essential. It ensures survival, it gets you there without having to worry about freezing to death, even during the night.
Sleeping in the cabin is very enjoyable. You sleep until it's time to get cracking to the river. It takes a bit of preparation and depending on the weather, you may want a good breakfast before taking on the fish. After all, in a man's world, there's tons and tons of physical labour to do making all those five-foot plus holes. The woman points and you sweat to start the motor and sweat further still and huff and puff to get the excess ice before hitting the water. Then if she feels like it, she'll wait a few minutes and point again.
When you want to move, she won't. She'll be stuck there staring down that hole and the hook. Ever hopeful, always aniticipating the excitement of the bite.
One woman confessed: "If it weren't for the existence of the Devil and the wolf, I'd be content to spend all my life at this hole!"